Metal Siding

It sits at the upper end of what we install. The panels themselves are competitive, but roll formed material has to be ordered to length, trim and flashing are fabricated rather than bought off a shelf, and a concealed fastener system is slower to hang than lap. The online estimator will put a range on your house and the home estimate replaces it with measured pricing.

Yes, and anyone who tells you otherwise is selling. A ladder set against a panel, a thrown ball, or heavy hail will mark it, and aluminum marks more easily than steel. A deeper profile hides a small dent better than a flat one. If your wall takes regular contact, we will point you at a ribbed profile or a different material rather than pretend the problem away.

Not on a wall. The noise people remember comes from metal roofing over an open attic, where the panel is a drum with nothing behind it. Siding sits against sheathing and insulation on the outside of a conditioned wall, and from inside the house you will not pick it out.

Steel is coated on both faces and does not rust from the field, but a raw cut edge or a deep scratch can, and salt air speeds that up. Near the water we usually put aluminum on the exposed elevations, because aluminum cannot rust at all. Either way cut edges get treated rather than left open.

Every exterior finish fades. How fast depends almost entirely on the coating rather than on the metal under it, and the gap between a premium coating and an economy one is large enough that it is worth the conversation at the estimate. Dark colors and south facing walls show it first.

We do not recommend it. Furring over old siding pushes windows and trim out of line, hides whatever condition the sheathing is in, and gives the panels a surface that is rarely flat enough. Metal shows every dip in a wall, so the substrate matters more here than with any other material.